A Village Unlike Anywhere Else in Japan
When most people think of Kyoto, they picture the Gion district, Fushimi Inari, or the temples of Arashiyama. Almost none of them know about Ine — a tiny fishing village on the Tango Peninsula, two hours north of Kyoto City, where the Sea of Japan meets a crescent-shaped bay and one of Japan's most unique architectural traditions has survived for centuries.
What Are Funaya?
Funaya (舟屋) translates literally as "boat house." These are traditional wooden buildings constructed directly over the water, with the ground floor serving as a garage and workshop for fishing boats — the boats float inside the structure — while the family lives on the upper floor. More than 230 funaya line the 5-kilometre shoreline of Ine Bay, many of them centuries old.
The design is entirely practical. Fishermen could launch and return directly from their home, working on nets and equipment under shelter. The bay itself acts as a natural harbour — its nearly enclosed shape protects boats from open-sea swells.
In 2005, Ine's funaya district was designated an Important Preservation District for Groups of Historic Buildings by the Japanese government — one of only a handful of fishing villages to receive this distinction.
Getting to Ine
Reaching Ine requires some effort, which is part of why it remains unspoiled:
- By bus: Take the Kintetsu or JR to Kyoto Station, then a highway bus or train to Miyazu or Amanohashidate, followed by a local Tango Kairiku Kotsu bus to Ine. The journey takes around 2–3 hours total.
- By car: The most flexible option. Approximately 2 hours from Kyoto City via the Kyoto Jukan Expressway. Parking is available near the village centre.
- By ferry: During certain seasons, tourist boats depart from Amanohashidate — a beautiful way to arrive by sea.
What to Do in Ine
Walk the Shoreline
The single most rewarding thing to do in Ine is simply walk slowly along the narrow road that traces the bay's edge. The funaya are close enough to touch. Fishing nets dry in doorways. Cats sleep on wooden piers. The pace of life here is unhurried in a way that few places in modern Japan still manage.
Take a Boat Tour
Short sightseeing boat tours (遊覧船) depart from the village and offer a view of the funaya from the water — the intended perspective. From the water, the relationship between the buildings and the sea becomes fully apparent. Tours typically last around 20–30 minutes.
Stay Overnight in a Funaya
A small number of funaya have been converted into guesthouses, allowing visitors to actually stay in these historic structures. Waking up to the sound of the sea beneath the floorboards, with fishing boats drifting past the window, is an experience with no equivalent elsewhere in Japan. Book well in advance — availability is very limited.
Eat Fresh Seafood
Several small restaurants in the village serve the day's catch. Look for noto-gani crab in winter and fresh aji (horse mackerel) in summer. The seafood here is extraordinarily fresh, and the settings are utterly without pretension.
When to Visit
Ine is beautiful year-round, but the most dramatic visit is in early morning light, when mist sits low over the bay and the funaya are reflected in still water. Arrive before 9am if at all possible. Summer evenings, when the bay glows at dusk, are equally memorable. Avoid golden week and summer weekends if you want the village to yourself.
A Few Things to Know
- Ine is still a working fishing village. Be respectful of residents' privacy and property.
- There are very few shops and ATMs. Bring cash and anything you might need.
- Mobile signal can be weak in parts of the village — download maps offline.
Ine no Funaya is proof that Japan's most extraordinary places are sometimes its most overlooked. This is a village that asks you to slow down — and rewards you completely when you do.